I’m encountering issues programming my key fob for my 2009 Mitsubishi Lancer, despite following the standard programming sequence. Here’s what I’ve done and where I’m stuck:
The programming procedure I’ve used is:
- Insert the key into the ignition and turn it to the “Off” position.
- Within 10 seconds of turning the key off, jump pins 1 and 4 of the OBD-II port.
- Within another 10 seconds, press the Hazard button 6 times. The door locks cycle, indicating entry into programming mode.
- Press the Lock button on the key fob 3 times.
According to the procedure, at this point, the door locks should cycle again to confirm successful programming. However, nothing happens. The locks do not cycle, and the key fob remains unprogrammed.
I’ve already taken a few steps to troubleshoot this:
- New Batteries: I’ve tried multiple new batteries from different brands, including one taken from a known working key fob, ruling out a simple battery issue.
- Key Fob Functionality: Years ago, while working at a used car dealership, I had access to a key fob programmer. I used it to test my key fob, and it was confirmed to be transmitting a signal (though I don’t recall the specific frequency).
Through online research, I’ve found discussions suggesting potential problems stem from the ignition key switch (the small white box on the side of the ignition cylinder) or the two green wires connected to it. Damage to this switch is reportedly common, often due to turbo timer installations or when removing steering column plastics. A key symptom of a faulty ignition key switch is a door chime sounding even when the key is not in the ignition. However, my door chime functions normally, only activating when the door is open and the key is in the ignition. I have also visually inspected the wiring, and it appears to be intact.
Another potential culprit I considered is a malfunctioning ETACS (Electronic Time and Alarm Control System) module. From my understanding, if the ETACS was failing, I would likely experience a wider range of electrical issues beyond just key fob programming.
At this point, I feel like I’ve explored most common solutions. The two remaining possibilities in my mind are a deeper issue with the ETACS module or the need to try a completely new key fob.
Any insights or further troubleshooting steps would be greatly appreciated.
