Disclaimer: Working on your vehicle can be dangerous. This guide assumes you have basic mechanical knowledge and are using proper safety equipment, including safety glasses. Always use jack stands when working under a vehicle. Hot coolant can cause severe burns and is toxic if ingested. This guide is for informational purposes only, and the author assumes no liability for any damages or injuries resulting from its use. If you are unsure about any step, consult a qualified automotive technician. Dispose of waste materials according to local regulations. Never open a hot, pressurized cooling system.
Why Upgrade Your 2.0 Aba Camshaft?
The Volkswagen 2.0 ABA engine is known for its reliability and fuel efficiency, but not necessarily for its thrilling performance. For those seeking a bit more power from this dependable engine, a camshaft upgrade is a popular and effective modification. A performance camshaft can optimize engine breathing by altering valve lift and duration, allowing more air into the cylinders. This, in turn, can lead to noticeable gains in horsepower and torque, especially when combined with other performance enhancements like an upgraded intake and exhaust system. Remember, a camshaft works best as part of a performance triangle: intake, camshaft, and exhaust. Simply swapping the camshaft alone might yield limited results if the intake or exhaust are restrictive.
Considering a camshaft upgrade for your 2.0 ABA? The best choice depends on your driving needs and overall performance goals. Are you aiming for a track-ready machine or a more spirited daily driver? Do you have future modifications planned, such as forced induction or cylinder head work? For this DIY guide, we’ll focus on a mild performance upgrade, similar to the Autotech 260 camshaft, known for its smooth idle and broad powerband. While we won’t be performing dyno tests in this guide, we’ll discuss the subjective performance improvements you can expect. This particular project complements existing modifications such as an OBDI setup, K&N air filter, modified airbox, performance header, and a 2.25″ Techtonics Tuning exhaust system with a Borla muffler.
For those new to camshafts, it’s beneficial to understand the basics. This primer on camshafts from Advance Auto Parts provides a helpful introduction.
Time Commitment:
This isn’t a rushed job. Set aside a leisurely day for this project. With breaks, this job can take around 6 hours. Factor in that this guide covers more than just the camshaft swap, including valve seals, lifters, and springs. Professional shop labor estimates for a camshaft replacement are around 4.2 hours, but taking your time ensures a thorough and careful installation.
Frequently Asked Questions Before You Begin:
- Do I need shop air for this job? No. While compressed air is used in this guide for valve spring removal, you can use the “rope method” as an alternative to keep valves closed. Step 38 of this guide demonstrates the rope method.
- Does the cylinder head need to be removed? No. The cylinder head stays in place on the engine.
- Since you mention the timing belt, do I need to replace the water pump? No. This upgrade does not require opening the cooling system. However, familiarity with timing belt procedures and stock timing marks is crucial. Perfect timing is essential for proper engine break-in after the camshaft install. If you are unfamiliar with the timing belt, please refer to this guide: Timing Belt DIY. This DIY DOES NOT cover timing belt replacement in detail.
- I’m due for an oil change, can I do it now? No. Change your oil before starting this upgrade and run the engine briefly to ensure oil pressure reaches the camshaft. Starting a new camshaft in a “dry” engine is extremely detrimental.
- Are adjustable cam sprockets necessary? Adjustable cam sprockets can be beneficial for fine-tuning performance, especially with more aggressive camshafts or modified cylinder heads. However, for a mild camshaft upgrade like the Autotech 260 and a stock cylinder head, they are generally not required. Cam tuning is best performed on a dynamometer for precise adjustments.
Cost Breakdown (Approximate):
- Camshaft: $100
- Valve Springs: $90
- Lifters: $90
- Seals, Gaskets, Belt: $50
- Specialty Tools (Valve Spring Compressor): $120 (Rental options are available, see notes in tools section)
- Chemicals/Lubricants: $30
- Total (without optional chip tuning): $480
- Total (with optional chip tuning): $580
Key Terminology:
- Tappet, Bucket, Lifter, Cam Follower: Interchangeable terms for the component between the camshaft lobe and valve.
- Spring Hat, Spring Retainer, Spring Top: Interchangeable terms for the component that sits on top of the valve spring and is secured by keepers.
| Essential Considerations Beyond the Camshaft: |
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| Upgrading your camshaft is more than just swapping a part. Several crucial guidelines must be followed to ensure a successful and long-lasting upgrade: First Rule: Never reuse a timing belt. A new timing belt is a minimal investment for critical engine reliability. If your timing belt is due for replacement, address it concurrently with this project, referencing a dedicated timing belt DIY guide. Second Rule: Always replace camshafts and lifters (or followers) as a matched set. These components wear together, and proper break-in is essential for their lifespan. Third Rule: Address accessible seals and gaskets while the engine is partially disassembled. This includes the camshaft seal, valve cover gasket, and valve stem seals. Valve seal replacement is often the primary motivation for this type of job, especially in older engines exhibiting oil consumption and smoking on cold starts due to worn valve seals. Fourth Rule: Maintain meticulous cleanliness. Engine internals are sensitive to contamination. Dirt or debris can cause significant damage to camshafts, lifters, valves, and cylinder heads. Fifth Rule: For improved high-RPM performance and durability, consider upgrading to dual valve springs, especially on OBDII 2.0 ABA engines which originally came with single-rate springs. OBDI ABA engines were equipped with dual-rate springs from the factory. See the important note below regarding valve springs for OBDII engines! |
Important Note for 1996+ (OBDII) 2.0 ABA Engines:
1996 and newer 2.0 ABA engines (OBDII) were equipped with single-rate valve springs from the factory. If you intend to upgrade to dual-rate valve springs (OBDI style) or heavy-duty performance springs, you will require new valve spring seats. These spring seats are not shown in this DIY but are a necessary component for proper dual-rate spring installation on OBDII engines. Additionally, OBDII engines may utilize different lifter types and necessitate the use of older OBDI-style dual-rate springs when upgrading.
| Tools and Parts Required: (In addition to standard tools from a timing belt DIY) |
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| Specialty Tools: 12 – OHV Valve Spring Compressor (Essential for valve spring and seal replacement. Consider renting this tool from GAP – Schley Products, Inc 91400) 9 – Open-End Long Needle Nose Pliers Not Shown: – Engine Compression Tester – Spark plug socket – Spark plug boot puller or VW Factory Spark Plug Boot Puller – Air compressor – Permatex Ultra Gray RTV Silicone Gasket Maker Parts: Optional Parts & Supplies: |
Step-by-Step Installation Guide:
Step 1 – Intake System Removal
Start by removing the air intake components, including the airbox, intake elbow, and associated ducting to gain access to the intake manifold.
Step 2 – Disconnecting Sensors and Cables
Disconnect all sensors connected to the intake manifold. This includes:
- EGR sensor (OBDI models, located at the rear of the intake manifold)
- Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) (three-wire connector at the throttle body)
- Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor (near the breather hose)
- Idle Air Control/Idle Stabilizer Valve (IAC/ISV) (OBDI models, near the oil cap)
Unplug all vacuum lines and hoses connected to the intake manifold, leaving the fuel lines undisturbed. Disconnect the throttle cable and the EGR line at the rear of the intake manifold. Remove the five Allen bolts at the front of the intake manifold and the two at the rear.
Step 3 – Intake Manifold Removal and Inspection
Carefully lift the intake manifold off the cylinder head. This is a good opportunity to clean the intake manifold and throttle body if desired.
With the intake manifold removed, the engine bay should look like this:
Step 4 – Protecting Intake Ports
To prevent debris from falling into the intake ports, securely cover them with tape. Contamination of the intake ports can lead to serious engine damage.
Step 5 – Timing Belt Cover Removal and Inspection
Following a timing belt DIY guide, remove the accessory belts and the upper and lower timing belt covers. (Refer to timing belt DIY guides for steps 5-6 and 15-23). Do not remove the timing belt at this stage.
This step reveals potential oil leaks from the camshaft seal or valve cover gasket.
Step 6 – Valve Cover Removal
Remove the small 10mm nuts securing the valve cover. Note if any studs come out with the nuts, as this can happen due to heat cycling, especially near header installations. In this example, two rear studs came out, requiring heat to separate the nuts from the studs.
Upon removing the valve cover, inspect the gasket sealing surface for leaks. In this case, oil weeping was evident from the valve cover gasket.
Step 7 – Camshaft Splash Shield Removal
The black plastic splash shield sits directly over the camshaft to deflect oil and keep the camshaft lubricated. It is not bolted down; simply lift it off.
Shield removed:
Step 8 – Spark Plug and Wire Removal
Using spark plug boot pullers, carefully disconnect and remove the spark plug wires and boots from all four spark plugs. Ensure the engine is cold to prevent thread damage to the cylinder head. Use compressed air to blow away any debris around the spark plugs before removal. If necessary, apply penetrating oil to loosen stubborn spark plugs.
Step 9 – TDC and Timing Belt Removal
At this stage, the engine bay should look like this:
Crucially, set the engine to Top Dead Center (TDC) before proceeding. Once at TDC, remove the timing belt. After removing the timing belt, DO NOT ROTATE THE CAMSHAFT OR CRANKSHAFT independently. Internal engine damage can result.
| Critical Step: Setting TDC and Timing Belt Removal Ensure the engine is precisely at Top Dead Center (TDC) before removing the timing belt. This is essential for correct camshaft timing upon reassembly. Refer to a timing belt DIY guide if needed to accurately locate TDC. Once TDC is confirmed, carefully remove the timing belt. Immediately after removing the timing belt, avoid rotating either the camshaft or the crankshaft independently to prevent potential engine damage. |
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Step 10 – Camshaft Bearing Cap Removal
Carefully remove the camshaft bearing caps in the correct sequence.
| Important: Camshaft Bearing Cap Removal Sequence Never remove camshaft bearing caps haphazardly. Unevenly releasing spring pressure can damage components. Follow this specific sequence to gradually and evenly relieve valve spring pressure: First, loosen caps 1, 3, and 5 by two turns each, in order. Then, loosen caps 2 and 4, again by two turns each, in order. Continue alternating in an “X” pattern, loosening each nut by two turns at a time until all caps are loose enough to remove. If you are unsure about this procedure, seek guidance from someone with experience. |
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Step 11 – Bearing Cap Organization
Keep the bearing caps organized and in their original order and orientation. They are offset and must be reinstalled correctly. Using nuts to keep them in order is a helpful practice, though the nuts themselves don’t need to be in specific locations.
Step 12 – Camshaft and Lifter Removal
Remove the old camshaft and place it in a safe location, away from dirt and grit. Use a magnet or your fingers to lift out the lifters. Keeping the lifters in order is also recommended. Inspect the lifters for unusual wear patterns.
Lifters are designed to move vertically with the valves and act as hydraulic cushions. They also rotate during operation, as evidenced by the swirl wear pattern, which is normal.
Lifters removed:
Close-up view of spring retainers, keepers, and lifter bores:
Clean all camshaft bearing surfaces and valve cover sealing surfaces using brake cleaner and a clean rag.
Step 13 – Camshaft Sprocket Bolt Removal
Secure the old camshaft in a vise, using wood blocks to protect it. Loosen and remove the camshaft sprocket bolt. This bolt can be very tight.
Note the key in the keyway for sprocket alignment.
Set the key, sprocket, and bolt aside for reassembly.
Step 14 – Valve Spring Compressor Preparation (Skip to Step 22 if not replacing springs/seals)
Remove the air valve from the base of the compression tester.
Use a tire valve stem tool for valve removal. Keep the valve stem tool for later use. We will use the compression tester fitting to introduce compressed air into the cylinder to hold the valves closed while removing valve keepers. If you don’t have compressed air, use the rope method mentioned earlier. Rope method alternative.
Screw the modified compression tester hose into the spark plug hole of cylinder number one. Ensure your air compressor is regulated to at least 100 PSI. Connect the air line. The engine may rotate slightly due to air pressure; this is normal. As long as the valves are in the “up” position, they will not contact the pistons.
Step 15 – Valve Spring Compression and Keeper Removal
Install the valve spring compressor tool as shown. This example shows a DIY tool, but a commercially available tool is recommended.
Position the tool to compress the valve spring retainer downwards. The compressed air (or rope method) will hold the valve in the closed position. Use a magnet to carefully remove the valve keepers.
Note: If valve keepers are stuck, gently tap the top of the spring retainer with a deep socket to loosen them. Be careful not to scratch the lifter bores. (See Step 20)
Step 16 – Retainer, Spring, and Seal Removal
Use a magnet to lift out the spring retainer (spring hat).
Remove the valve springs.
Use open-end needle-nose pliers to carefully grab and remove the old valve seal.
Caution: Avoid scratching the lifter bore or valve stem with the pliers.
Step 17 – Old Valve Seal Inspection
Inspect the old valve seal. The inner lip is often brittle and worn, indicating its age and potential source of oil leaks.
Step 18 – New Valve Seal Installation Preparation
To prevent damage to the new valve seal during installation over the valve stem keeper grooves, use a piece of heat shrink tubing. Heat one end of the tubing to shrink it slightly, creating a wider opening to slip over the valve stem. This provides a protective guide for the new seal.
Step 19 – New Valve Seal Installation
Apply a small amount of engine assembly lube to the new valve seal. Motor oil can also be used. Slide the new seal down the valve stem, guided by the heat shrink tubing. Once the seal is positioned at the base of the valve stem, pull off the heat shrink tubing. Use an 11mm deep socket to gently press the seal into place. Lightly tap the socket with a rubber hammer to fully seat the seal.
Reinstall the valve springs, spring retainer (hat), and keepers. Apply engine assembly lube to the keepers to help them adhere to the retainer during installation, which can be a delicate process. Take your time.
Step 20 – Valve Keeper Installation Tip
Follow the illustrated technique if valve keepers are proving difficult to install.
Step 21 – Repeat for Remaining Valves
Repeat steps 15-20 for each valve, working one cylinder at a time. This process is time-consuming but crucial for thorough valve seal replacement.
For OBDII engines upgrading to dual-rate valve springs: Remember to remove and install new valve spring seats at this stage.
Step 22 – New Lifter Installation
Install the new lifters into their bores. Apply a generous amount of engine assembly lube to all surfaces of the lifters. They should fit snugly but move freely within the bores. Avoid forcing or tapping them into place. If a lifter is too tight, remove it and try again. Do not force it.
Lubricate the camshaft journals thoroughly with engine assembly lube.
Step 23 – New Camshaft Installation
Install the new camshaft, ensuring the lobes for cylinder number one are pointing upwards.
Step 24 – New Camshaft Seal Installation
Install a new camshaft seal. Lubricate the seal lip that contacts the camshaft with engine assembly lube. This step is critical to prevent oil leaks.
Re-verify that the crankshaft and distributor are still at TDC.
Step 25 – Camshaft Bearing Cap Reinstallation and Torque
Apply a liberal amount of engine assembly lube to the camshaft journals. Double-check that the number one cylinder intake and exhaust lobes are pointing upwards as shown.
Reinstall the camshaft bearing caps, reversing the removal sequence. Tighten in stages, two turns at a time per nut, following the “X” pattern. First, install and tighten caps 2 and 4, then caps 1, 3, and 5, all in the reverse of the removal order.
Tighten all nuts to 7 ft-lbs initially, then to a final torque of 15 ft-lbs, maintaining the alternating sequence.
Correctly installed camshaft seal appearance:
Step 26 – Camshaft Sprocket and Bolt Installation
Install the camshaft key, sprocket, and torque the center camshaft bolt to 59 ft-lbs. Use a breaker bar to counter-hold the camshaft against bearing cap #1 while torquing the bolt.
Lubricate the camshaft lobes generously with engine assembly lube. Pour approximately ½ quart of fresh engine oil over the camshaft lobes and further coat them with assembly lube.
Step 27 – Camshaft Splash Shield and Valve Cover Installation
Reinstall the camshaft splash shield and valve cover.
Step 28 – Valve Cover Gasket and Final Assembly
Apply a small dab of Permatex Ultra Gray RTV silicone sealant at each of the four “arch corners” on the cylinder head where the valve cover gasket makes a semi-circular bend. While not specified by VW, this can help prevent leaks in these high-stress areas.
Clean the valve cover gasket sealing surface with brake cleaner and a rag. Replace the PCV breather grommet in the valve cover if needed. Old grommets become brittle and can crack during removal.
Tighten the valve cover bolts to 7 ft-lbs in stages, using a criss-cross pattern.
Reinstall the timing belt and timing belt covers, following steps 15-23 from a timing belt DIY guide.
Step 29 – Intake Reassembly and Final Checks
Reinstall all intake components removed in Step 1. Tighten the intake manifold bolts to 15 ft-lbs. Triple-check that all vacuum lines, wires, and sensor connectors are properly reconnected.
Step 30 – Engine Start-up and Camshaft Break-in
Start the engine. Immediately hold the idle at 2000 RPM for 20 minutes. This is crucial for proper camshaft break-in.
| Critical Camshaft Break-in Procedure Immediate engine start-up is vital. Prolonged cranking can damage the camshaft and lifters. Do NOT allow the engine to idle during break-in. Run the engine at a sustained 1800-2200 RPM for a minimum of 20 minutes. Camshaft and lifter lubrication primarily relies on oil splash from the crankshaft; RPMs below 1800 may lead to insufficient lubrication and camshaft lobe failure. Higher RPMs also facilitate faster lifter rotation and proper seating during this critical break-in period. Continuously monitor oil pressure during the first 20 minutes. If any issues arise, immediately shut down the engine. |
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Using a zip tie on the throttle cable can help maintain a steady 2000 RPM during break-in.
Note: Some lifter or camshaft chatter (“click, click, click”) is normal during the break-in period as lifters pump up with oil. The valvetrain may exhibit various noises during this time.
Example of lifter tick (windows.wav file) – Note: This sound example is at idle, not at 2000 RPM break-in speed.
After the 20-minute break-in, and once the engine has cooled, perform an oil and filter change to remove any break-in debris.
Post-Installation Performance
After the camshaft installation and break-in, driving the vehicle reveals the improved power band. The upgraded camshaft shifts the power curve, providing noticeable pull starting around 2500 RPM and extending higher into the rev range compared to the stock camshaft, which typically peaked in the 3000-4000 RPM range and then tapered off. The result is a more responsive and engaging driving experience. Initial lifter noise should subside after driving and allow the lifters to fully settle.
