Like many convertible owners, I relish driving with the top down on beautiful days. However, the joy fades quickly when a dilapidated convertible top turns a pleasant drive into a soggy experience. Rain inside the car more than outside? Pinholes and failing seals are the culprits. My E30 convertible had reached that point – driving in the rain became an exercise in avoiding waterfalls. Enough was enough. Procrastination ended, and the convertible top replacement project began.
Surprisingly, a comprehensive, step-by-step DIY guide for this task seemed to be missing. Information was scattered, incomplete, or model-specific. So, armed with online resources, advice from fellow car enthusiasts, and a commitment to document the process, I embarked on replacing my E30’s convertible top. This guide is the result – a detailed DIY for the E30 community and potentially helpful for owners of other compact convertibles like Z3s, Miatas, VW Cabriolets, and Z4s facing similar top replacement challenges.
Whether you drive a BMW E30 or another convertible model, you’ll find valuable insights here. So, gather your tools, prepare for some adhesive work, grab your preferred beverage, and let’s dive into this E30 Vert Top Replacement DIY. Get ready to reclaim dry, top-down driving!
Before we start wrenching, let’s cover some essential introductory advice and ensure you’re properly equipped for this DIY convertible top replacement.
Essential Items for Convertible Top Replacement
Having the right tools and materials on hand will significantly streamline the process. Here’s a comprehensive list of what you’ll need:
- Latex Gloves: Stock up on these. You’ll be working with adhesives, and protecting your hands is crucial.
- Loctite 300 Spray Adhesive (Silver label) – 2 cans: This is a reliable spray adhesive for convertible tops. Ensure you have at least two cans to cover the entire project.
- Goof-Off or Industrial Adhesive Remover: Essential for removing stubborn old adhesive. Choose your preferred brand.
- Anti-Seize Lubricant (e.g., PB Blaster): Helpful for loosening corroded screws and bolts, especially on older cars like the E30.
- Silicone Lubricant: For easing the installation of new seals and trim pieces.
- Shop Towels: Plenty of them for cleaning and wiping up excess adhesive.
- Microfiber Towels: At least 10. These are great for cleaning and won’t leave lint behind.
- Course-Bristled Brush (disposable): For scrubbing away old adhesive. You’ll likely discard this brush after the job.
- Trim Tool Set: Indispensable for аккуратно removing trim pieces and seals without damage. Consider the Schwaben Trim Tools from ECS Tuning for a quality set.
- Sikaflex 221 Auto/Marine Seam Sealer/Adhesive: A must-have for sealing seams and gaps, ensuring a watertight finish.
- Caulk Gun: For applying the Sikaflex 221 neatly and effectively.
- 5/32” Rivets: For reattaching certain components, especially in the rear window area.
- Professional Rivet Gun: To install the 5/32” rivets securely.
- Drill and Drill Bits: For drilling out rivets and potentially creating pilot holes.
- Four Locking Vice Grips: To securely hold the convertible top fabric in place during gluing.
- Dremel Tool: Useful for detail work, like trimming excess material or cleaning up edges.
- Drop Cloths (3 x 5×10 sheets recommended): Protect your car’s interior and paint from adhesive and debris.
- Foam Blocks: To support the convertible top frame and prevent damage to the car.
- Trunk Support (e.g., Schwaben wheel jack stand): To safely prop up the rear of the convertible top frame during the process.
- Frosty Beverages: Seriously, patience is key. Allow ample time for glue to dry, and stay refreshed!
Essential Attitudes:
- Patience: This is not a rushed job. Take your time and do it right.
- Confidence: Believe in your ability to tackle this DIY project.
- Commitment: Once you start, see it through to completion.
- Patience (Again): Yes, it’s that important.
Valuable Resources:
Before starting, familiarize yourself with the process by watching BMW repair guide videos on YouTube. These videos, though sometimes lacking detail, provide a visual overview of the convertible top replacement. Use them in conjunction with this guide.
Let’s get started!
Begin by unfastening your convertible top from the A-pillar mounts, as if you were preparing to lower the top.
Alt Text: Close-up of a non-OEM convertible top seal on a BMW E30, highlighting the difference from the factory version which typically wraps further around.
Spread drop cloths thoroughly over your car’s interior. Ideally, remove your front and rear seats. Trust me, creating extra workspace is worth it. Learn from my experience and make the interior removal a priority.
Now, carefully begin removing the old seals. If you are budget-conscious, you might consider reusing them if they are still in decent condition. However, for optimal sealing and longevity, new seals are recommended. ECS Tuning offers a range of seals for the BMW E30. Gently peel the trim out of the convertible top rails. You’ll find front, side, and rear seals (under the window where it meets the deck when closed). Meticulously clean the rails to remove any rubber, glue, or debris. The new seals won’t slide in properly if the rails aren’t perfectly clean.
Alt Text: Detailed view of a BMW E30 convertible top rail after seal removal, emphasizing the need for thorough cleaning of any residual adhesive or debris before installing new seals.
With the seals removed, you’ll expose rails at the front (windshield hoop/A-pillars) and rear (U-shaped). These are secured with Phillips head screws. Carefully remove these screws. Applying PB Blaster beforehand can help loosen any corrosion. Stripping these screws is something to avoid as you will be reusing them. I encountered a mix of OEM and non-OEM screws due to a previous top replacement, so be prepared for variations. For slightly stripped screws, a rubber glove or rubber band placed over the screwdriver head can provide extra grip.
Alt Text: Front convertible top rail of a BMW E30, highlighting the location of Phillips head screws that need to be removed during the top replacement process.
Alt Text: Close-up view of the rear convertible top rail on a BMW E30, indicating the positioning of numerous Phillips head screws requiring removal for top disassembly.
Now, remove the side rails. Contrary to some guides that suggest removing all rails, focus only on the front rail, front driver/passenger window rails, and rear driver/passenger rails. Leave the middle rails untouched – they are unnecessary to remove and the seals are notoriously difficult to reinstall.
Alt Text: Side convertible top rails of a BMW E30, pointing out the Phillips head screws that need to be unscrewed for rail removal.
Alt Text: Rear convertible top rail of a BMW E30, emphasizing the large number of small Phillips head screws that must be removed to detach the rail.
Alt Text: Detail shot of the many screws along the rear convertible top rail of a BMW E30, illustrating the meticulous nature of the removal process.
Alt Text: The removed rear convertible top rail of a BMW E30, highlighting its awkward shape and flimsiness, suggesting careful handling and storage to prevent damage.
For the rear side window seals, you’ll encounter Phillips head screws and three rivets on each side within the rail itself. My car had rivets that were too small and simply fell out, but correct replacements should be 5/32” rivets.
Alt Text: Acorn nuts on a BMW E30 convertible top that need to be removed to detach the support brace, shown with the vinyl cover partially removed to access the screws.
Alt Text: Phillips head screws revealed behind the vinyl cover of a BMW E30 convertible top, which need to be held in place while loosening the acorn nuts for brace removal.
Alt Text: Close-up of hardware store rivets used on a BMW E30 convertible top, noting they are replacements and the original rivets would typically require drilling out.
With the rails removed, the convertible top is now glued to the frame. If your inner bow wraps are still present, remove them first. Heat can help loosen the adhesive. Mine were already mostly detached.
Alt Text: Process of peeling the old, worn canvas away from the frame of a BMW E30 convertible top, revealing attempts at repair with flex-seal.
Alt Text: Close-up showing the accumulation of old, deteriorated adhesive remaining on the frame of a BMW E30 convertible top after canvas removal.
Alt Text: Foam blocks positioned underneath the BMW E30 convertible top frame to protect the car’s finish and trim while the old canvas is being removed.
Next, detach the springs from the two cable tensioners on each side. Twist them inwards and pull them from the T-shaped hook on the frame. After spring removal, pull the dust cover and separate the spring from the cable. Pay close attention to the spring’s position in the cable hole for correct reassembly. Slide the cable out from the front of the frame (with the rail attached) and remove it from the car. Repeat on the other side.
Alt Text: A bow of the BMW E30 convertible top frame, exposed after peeling away the old canvas, ready for cleaning and preparation for the new top.
With bows free, start peeling the canvas top from the frame at a front corner. Be gentle. The frame is more flexible than you might expect and becomes even more so without the canvas. Work slowly and apply heat if needed.
Alt Text: Peeling the front section of the old canvas away from the BMW E30 convertible top frame after detaching all bows, showing the progress of removal.
Congratulations, the old canvas top should now be completely removed!
Alt Text: The bare frame of a BMW E30 convertible top, fully stripped of the old canvas, signaling the completion of the removal phase and the start of preparation for the new top.
Looking at the bare frame might seem daunting. This is a good point for a break, especially if you’ve already invested a few hours. Step away, refresh yourself, and prepare for the next stage, which requires patience and focus.
With the canvas removed, the tedious but vital task of stripping old adhesive begins. Complete removal of all old adhesive and sealant is critical. Failure to do so will compromise the adhesion of your new top.
Alt Text: Using Goof-Off industrial adhesive remover and a brush to meticulously strip the old adhesive from the metal frame of a BMW E30 convertible top.
Use a coarse brush, ample adhesive stripper (like Goof-Off), and shop towels. Saturate a towel with stripper and coat all areas of the frame (bows, rear hoop, front hoop) with adhesive residue. Soak your brush in more stripper. Scrub firmly to remove all adhesive. This is time-consuming, so be patient and work in sections. I took breaks after each bow. The entire process can take 1-2 hours to ensure all adhesive is gone. Protect your car’s interior, trim, and paint from the stripper. This is why removing seats and using drop cloths is highly recommended.
Alt Text: The BMW E30 convertible top frame after meticulous cleaning, showing all old adhesive completely removed and the frame prepped for application of the new convertible top canvas.
Once all old adhesive is removed, you’re ready to position the new top. Lay it over the frame and align the two main seams with the notches on the front crossbar (A-pillar meeting point) and the alignment mark on the rear with the frame’s centerline.
Alt Text: Emphasis on the alignment marks on the new convertible top fabric for a BMW E30, highlighting their importance for correct positioning and fitment on the frame.
Alt Text: Carefully positioning the new convertible top canvas onto the cleaned frame of a BMW E30, aligning seams and marks for accurate installation.
Working alone can be a bit tricky, but manageable. Ideally, with a helper, stretch the canvas over each side’s corner. “Pockets” in the canvas should slide over the frame corners where it meets the rear passenger windows and body. Double-check your alignment marks.
Alt Text: Using locking vice grips to securely hold the front edge of the new convertible top canvas in place on the BMW E30 frame, ensuring proper tension and alignment before gluing.
Protecting the new canvas with thick towels, use two locking vice grips to secure the front of the top. Avoid overtightening the clamps – just enough pressure to prevent movement. Hulk strength is not needed here.
Alt Text: Adjusting the locking vice grips on the front of the BMW E30 convertible top, with towels used as protection, to ensure the canvas is firmly held without damage.
Position all gluing flaps so they are free and not trapped behind the frame. Mask off the rear vinyl window with newspaper and painter’s tape to avoid getting adhesive on it. While Goof-Off can remove adhesive from the vinyl, it can also damage it if not immediately cleaned, so prevention is best.
Alt Text: Masking the rear vinyl window of a BMW E30 convertible top with newspaper and painter’s tape to protect it from overspray during adhesive application for the new canvas.
With the top aligned and positioned, begin gluing. Start at the rear and work forward slowly. Strictly follow the adhesive instructions. Loctite 300 requires heavy application and a 10-minute wait before pressing surfaces together.
Alt Text: Applying Loctite 300 spray adhesive to the frame of a BMW E30 convertible top, preparing it for bonding with the new canvas fabric.
Working from the middle outwards, press the vinyl flaps onto the frame to glue them. Use a trim tool to apply even pressure. As you work, you’ll feel how the fabric wants to conform. Work with it, not against it. Press inwards towards the car, from the top to the flap edge. Work slowly from the middle outwards, pressing towards any ridges or non-flat frame sections. Patience is crucial. Re-press, reapply adhesive, and re-glue as needed. The adhesive isn’t fully permanent until it dries completely (about 24 hours).
Alt Text: Close-up showing the alignment of the new convertible top fabric on the rear hoop of a BMW E30, indicating the precise positioning needed for proper fitment and adhesion.
On each side of the rear hoop, fabric alignment points will be visible. Align these on both sides for exact fitment. Next, move to the front, remove the locking clamps. The top should slide over each corner similarly to the rear corners. Be generous with adhesive here, as there’s a lot of fabric to glue, and it tends to peel away while drying. Repressing may be needed, and achieving a proper set might take an evening. Work patiently from the front inwards, pressing around all contours. Removing the top handles can help, but isn’t mandatory. Be ready to make small notches in the fabric to clear set pins.
Alt Text: Pressing down the front section of the new convertible top canvas onto the BMW E30 frame, ensuring strong adhesion and a smooth, wrinkle-free finish.
Alt Text: Detailed work on the nooks and crannies of the BMW E30 convertible top frame while pressing down the new canvas, ensuring adhesive reaches all contact points for a secure bond.
Don’t fear mistakes, just be patient and follow the frame’s contours with your trim tool.
Let the frame sit half-open to dry in both front and rear areas. This prevents your work from undoing itself when you glue the inside sections later.
Now, reinstall the tension cables. Using a mechanic’s flexible gopher (grabber tool), guide it from rear to front, and the cable from front to rear. Expand the gripper fingers, feel cable contact, and close them to grab the spring hole. Carefully guide it through, pulling it out the rear guide through the hinged top frame. I initially missed the hinge location and had to redo this step.
Alt Text: Series of images depicting the use of a mechanic’s flexible gopher tool to skillfully install the tension cable within the BMW E30 convertible top frame.
Set the top in the closed position. Don’t fasten it, but ensure the tension cables provide rigidity. With the front and rear glued and dried as mentioned, most of the structure should be in place. After front and rear gluing, move to the ‘C-pillar’ locations. These are the trickiest to glue. Pull the fabric taut and glue from outside-in. These areas are somewhat bowl-shaped (rivet locations), so glue one flat section at a time. Minimize glue around rivet holes, as you’ll need to cut these areas out later, and heavily glued sections are harder to remove.
Alt Text: Using a thin trim tool to carefully fit and press the new convertible top fabric between the frame rails of a BMW E30, ensuring precise and secure adhesion in tight spaces.
Alt Text: Close-up view of the rivet holes on the BMW E30 convertible top fabric, indicating the points where rivets will be reinstalled later in the assembly process.
With this done, your top should be glued except for the inner bows (we’ll address these later).
Reinstall the dust cover and spring. Check the rivets on the top rail where the tensioner connects upfront. I replaced these rivets as mine were no longer holding the cable mount securely.
Reinstall the front rails with their Phillips screws.
Back at the tensioner spring location, find the holes on the rear side of the glued ‘C-pillar’ area. Use a pick to punch through rivet and threaded holes into the canvas. This reveals the material to cut out for rail reinstallation – about a 5” tall by 2” wide section on each side.
Alt Text: Cutting away excess material from the new convertible top canvas of a BMW E30 around the rivet holes, preparing the area for reinstallation of rails and hardware.
With the material cut, reinstall acorn nuts and supports, and rivet the rails in place. Riveting is straightforward. You’re now in the home stretch!
Slide in the rear window seals from the bottom upwards. Silicone lubricant on rails and seals helps. Push and pull upwards simultaneously. They should slide in cleanly if rails are clean. Secure the bottom plastic seal part under the rail against the top frame with two screws (one per side).
Alt Text: Two images showing the process of sliding in and properly seating the rear window seal into the frame of a BMW E30 convertible top.
Repeat with the front driver and passenger window seals, starting from the car’s middle and working forward.
Return to the rear and install the rear seal seat. Use a pick to create pilot holes for screws through the fabric. Find the center hole first, screw the rail in, then locate the farthest corner holes. With these three secured, you should be able to punch through remaining holes easily. Screws might even go straight through if everything aligns well.
Alt Text: Installing the rear seal on a BMW E30 convertible top, ensuring it is properly seated and aligned for weatherproofing.
Repeat this process for the front rail. I left handles in place as their marks helped align the rail and find screw holes easily. Handles also held the rail, freeing both hands to insert screws through the fabric. BMW’s official method might differ, so be careful not to bend the rail excessively, which could prevent seal acceptance.
Alt Text: Using a pick tool to create guide holes through the new canvas for aligning and installing the front rail of a BMW E30 convertible top.
Alt Text: Series of images showing the alignment and final installation of the front rail on a BMW E30 convertible top, ensuring a precise fit and secure attachment.
Reinstall both front and rear seals with a trim tool. You should be able to press one seal side in by hand, then use the trim tool’s thin, flat, plastic edge to push the rest of the seal into its seat.
Alt Text: Reinstalling the seals on a BMW E30 convertible top using a trim tool to carefully seat the rubber into the rails, ensuring a tight and weatherproof seal.
Now, fully close the top and get inside your convertible. Begin gluing the wraps around the bows. Start at the rear and work forward, one flap at a time. Wrap one side around each bow, let it dry, then do the second flap. I used almost a full adhesive can just for this part, as it’s fabric-on-fabric gluing in some areas, not fabric-to-frame.
Finally, using seam sealer (Sikaflex 221 – highly recommended), fill any gaps in front and side seals, except areas needing articulation or movement. Let dry for 24 hours in the half-closed position (as pictured below).
Alt Text: BMW E30 convertible top left to dry in a half-closed position after seam sealing, allowing proper curing and preventing stress on new adhesive bonds.
Congratulations! You have now completely replaced your convertible top! Enjoy driving your refreshed E30, rain or shine.
Alt Text: Collage of five images showcasing the completed BMW E30 convertible top replacement from various angles (rear, side, front, interior, detail), highlighting the successful outcome of the DIY project.
