The allure of #vanlife is undeniable, painting a picture of freedom, adventure, and minimalist living on the open road. At the heart of this movement, the Volkswagen Vanagon, particularly the Westfalia camper version, has become an icon. These boxy vans, especially the 1990 models, represent the pinnacle of the Vanagon era, boasting improved features and a dedicated following. But before you dive headfirst into purchasing a retro Vanagon and chasing Instagram-worthy sunsets, it’s crucial to understand the realities of owning a vehicle entering its fourth decade.
The Volkswagen Vanagon Westfalia, produced from 1983 to 1991, captured the hearts of Americans seeking a compact, affordable escape vehicle. Nearly 100,000 water-cooled Vanagons were sold in the US, with Westfalia models being highly sought after. Their enduring appeal has seen values climb, even landing them on Hagerty’s 2021 Bull Market List as collector vehicles expected to appreciate. “Excellent” condition models can fetch between $27,000 and $36,000, reflecting their desirability.
To get a real owner’s perspective, we spoke with Fred Mercier, a seasoned auto journalist and editor-in-chief of Le Guide de l’auto (The Car Guide). Fred has been living the Vanagon life since 2016 with his 1990 Volkswagen Vanagon Westfalia. The 1990 model year is often considered the sweet spot, featuring the upgraded engine and cooling system, easily identified by their square headlights, a departure from the earlier round headlights. Fred shared his candid insights into the joys and challenges of owning this legendary camper van.
Why the Westfalia? The Appeal of a 1990 Volkswagen Vanagon
InsideHook: What sparked your interest in owning a Westfalia?
Fred Mercier: I was looking for a vehicle that could enhance my summers, something perfect for camping and road trips, but also a bit unique, not something you see every day. While Vanagons are actually quite popular, once you start looking, I was drawn to the iconic status of the Westfalia. The idea of having a mobile home, being able to sleep comfortably wherever I parked, was incredibly appealing. I prefer off-the-beaten-path camping, avoiding crowded campgrounds. The Vanagon allows for a degree of stealth camping. With the pop-top down, it simply looks like a parked van, offering incognito overnight stays.
At the time, I also owned a Porsche 944. The contrast between the two vehicles is probably why I still own them both. When I crave a thrilling drive, I choose the Porsche. But the Vanagon fulfills different passions: my love for cars and my passion for travel, especially outdoor adventures like camping. It was the perfect blend of my interests.
The Hunt for a 1990 Volkswagen Vanagon Westfalia: Patience and Persistence
InsideHook: How long did it take you to find your 1990 Volkswagen Vanagon Westfalia?
Fred Mercier: I actively searched for a Westfalia for about a year before I found mine. Even back then, around 2016, they were already considered expensive. Their value has significantly increased since, so I consider myself fortunate to have bought when I did. But even then, affordability was a concern for me as a younger buyer.
My search was focused on finding a balance between condition and price. I prioritized a solid body, knowing rust can be a common issue in certain areas on these vans. I was prepared for maintenance and repairs, understanding it comes with owning an older vehicle, but I wanted to avoid a complete restoration project. I wanted a van I could use and enjoy for weekend getaways right away.
The market for these vans is competitive, much like the housing market. When a reasonably priced Vanagon came up for sale, you had to act quickly. Demand was high. If you wanted a pre-purchase inspection, sellers were often hesitant, knowing there were multiple interested buyers ready to make an offer immediately. This urgency made the search challenging, but I wasn’t in a rush. I probably looked at three or four vans before finding the right one.
Serendipity and Trust: Finding “The One” 1990 Vanagon
InsideHook: What made you choose the 1990 Volkswagen Vanagon Westfalia you eventually purchased?
Fred Mercier: I connected with a seller in Saint-Hyacinthe, Quebec, who is well-known within the local Westfalia community. He specializes in buying and selling these vans, and has a good network. The first van I looked at through him wasn’t suitable. He was remarkably honest, pointing out significant water leaks and other issues, advising me against buying it. Instead, he took my contact information, promising to reach out if he found something that better fit my needs and budget.
About a month or two later, he called me about another van. He described it as having a very clean body and being in good overall condition. That was the 1990 Volkswagen Vanagon Westfalia I ended up buying.
Honesty in the Vintage Van Market: A Rare Find
InsideHook: It’s unusual for a seller to advise against buying their own vehicle.
Fred Mercier: Absolutely. I was initially quite taken with the first van he showed me, despite its flaws. I appreciated his honesty but was still inclined to buy it. I said something like, “I appreciate your honesty, but I really like this van, I still think I should buy it.” He firmly said, “No, I don’t feel comfortable selling it to you.” He felt it wasn’t the right fit for a first-time Vanagon owner, almost like he was a tailor fitting a suit, not just a car salesman. This level of integrity really impressed me and ultimately led me to the right van.
Upgrades and Personal Touches: Customizing a Classic 1990 Vanagon
InsideHook: What condition was your 1990 Volkswagen Vanagon Westfalia in when you bought it, and what modifications or repairs have you undertaken?
Fred Mercier: The body was, and still is, remarkably solid. It’s actually in even better shape now thanks to some bodywork done by my cousin, who specializes in that. Mechanically, it was running well when I purchased it.
I’ve made a few personalizations. I swapped the original 14-inch wheels for 16-inch steel wheels and fitted BFGoodrich KO2 off-road tires. I was going for a more rugged, off-road aesthetic, even though, realistically, I rarely take it off paved roads. But I liked the tougher look. I also added HELLA fog lights to the front for improved visibility.
The pop-top tent fabric needed replacement. It was worn out when I bought it, but fortunately, a replacement was included. Changing the tent material was a surprisingly complex and challenging job. I installed a ladder at the back primarily to access the roof rack. Honestly, the ladder is more for looks than practicality, as I don’t use the roof rack very often. I mainly use the bike rack on the back.
Beyond these changes, I’ve tried to keep the van as original as possible. Apart from the wheels, tires, and ladder, I haven’t made significant modifications.
The Genius of Westfalia Design: Intelligent Space Utilization in a 1990 Vanagon
InsideHook: What’s the most underrated aspect of the Vanagon Westfalia?
Fred Mercier: The sheer ingenuity of the design. People often underestimate how intelligently these vehicles are designed, especially in terms of space utilization. Every inch of space is thoughtfully used for storage or functionality. It’s truly remarkable. Even today, modern camper vans like the Volkswagen California, and conversions from other companies, are still inspired by the Westfalia layout and design principles. The placement of counters, storage compartments – it was all so well conceived and efficient that there’s very little room for improvement even in contemporary designs.
Overrated Features and Unexpected Propane Adventures in a 1990 Vanagon Westfalia
InsideHook: What’s the most overrated aspect of the Vanagon Westfalia?
Fred Mercier: Probably the built-in mini-fridge, and the entire kitchen unit in general. While it’s a classic feature, a portable stove and a cooler often suffice. I find myself using the sink more than the fridge or stove. Volkswagen even offered a “Weekender” version of the Vanagon – with the pop-top but without the full kitchen setup (no water tank, stove, or fridge) – which is often more affordable.
Speaking of the kitchen unit, I had a memorable experience with the propane system. My propane tank developed a leak shortly after I filled it for a camping weekend. The day after filling it, I smelled propane inside the van. I checked underneath and discovered a leak. With a full tank, I was concerned about safety, especially parked on the street. I was worried about a potential explosion from a stray cigarette.
I called 911. The firefighters arrived, equipped with propane sensors. They checked the concentration inside the van and, surprisingly, declared it wasn’t explosive. Their advice? “Just open your stove and burn off the propane.” So, I spent an entire evening inside the van, watching the stove flame, waiting for the tank to empty. It took hours!
Breakdown in Virginia: The Realities of Vintage Van Travel
InsideHook: What’s your most memorable experience in your 1990 Volkswagen Vanagon Westfalia so far?
Fred Mercier: I’ve had many great times in the van, but the most memorable, and perhaps cautionary, tale is when I broke down on a trip to Tennessee. I was heading to Chattanooga, but my journey ended prematurely in Virginia.
However, even in a breakdown, there were positives. AAA towed me to a small Volkswagen repair shop in rural Pennsylvania. A very kind, albeit eccentric, neighbor of the garage took me under his wing. He brought me food, offered me the key to his house for facilities – incredibly generous. His relationship with the garage mechanics was, shall we say, complicated, which added to the quirky atmosphere. I ended up sleeping in the Vanagon in the garage parking lot for a few nights. The mechanics diagnosed a broken flex plate in the automatic transmission. The repair would take time waiting for parts, so I had to find another way home.
I booked a flight back to Quebec. The garage owners were kind enough to drive me to the nearest airport, which was in Washington D.C., about 1.5 hours away. About six weeks later, once the van was repaired, my father and I drove back down to Pennsylvania. My dad has a Touareg TDI, which is a reliable tow vehicle. Even though the Vanagon was fixed, I was hesitant to drive it all the way back to Quebec on its own. We put the Vanagon on a trailer and towed it back with the Touareg. That experience was a turning point. Since then, my mindset shifted. I realized it’s a fantastic van for weekend trips, but I’m now more cautious about long-distance travel in it.
Is a 1990 Volkswagen Vanagon Westfalia Right for You? Know Thyself (and Your Mechanical Aptitude)
InsideHook: What type of person should absolutely not own this car?
Fred Mercier: Definitely someone who isn’t a car enthusiast, and especially someone who isn’t comfortable with mechanics and older vehicles. Sooner or later, owning a Vanagon means getting your hands dirty and working on it yourself.
If you’re buying a Vanagon purely for carefree camping trips without any mechanical worries, this isn’t the vehicle for you. You will worry. Whenever I drive it, there’s always a little voice in the back of my head: “What’s that new noise?” or “Is something else about to happen?” Peace of mind isn’t really part of the Vanagon ownership experience, especially on longer journeys. Honestly, if I ever decide to sell it, it will likely be because I’m tired of that constant underlying worry about potential breakdowns.
They have a reputation for unreliability, but it’s important to remember these vans, even the newest ones, are over 30 years old. They aren’t inherently unreliable “because they are Vanagons,” but because they are aging vehicles with accumulated mileage. Reliability largely depends on maintenance history and ongoing care. I’ve certainly had my share of issues. I’m currently dealing with intermittent starter problems again, fresh from another garage visit. They do have potential reliability quirks, but it’s more a factor of age than inherent design flaws.
Reflecting on the Purchase: Weekender vs. Westfalia and the Unique Driving Experience
InsideHook: What else do you wish you had known before buying your 1990 Volkswagen Vanagon Westfalia?
Fred Mercier: Perhaps I should have considered a Weekender model instead of a full Westfalia. They are just as cool, often more affordable, simply because they lack the complete camping kitchen set, which, as I mentioned, I don’t fully utilize anyway.
InsideHook: For someone who has never driven one, how would you describe the driving experience of a 1990 Volkswagen Vanagon Westfalia?
Fred Mercier: It’s truly unique. The first thing you’ll notice is how slow it is, without a doubt. The driving position is also unusual; you’re sitting directly over the front tires. This means when you turn, you need to initiate the turn slightly later than in a conventional car. It’s a minor adjustment, but something to be aware of. And the brakes are definitely not as powerful as modern vehicles. You need to brake progressively and avoid driving too fast. Though, realistically, “too fast” isn’t really an option in a Vanagon anyway!
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This article is adapted from an interview featured in the InsideHook newsletter. Sign up now for more insights and stories.
